Updates

Thought I wouldn’t surf today. Thought I would just work. Up at dawn, drop off the groms, race back but, I checked the surf on the way...

I can see him coming towards me. See the section closing in front of him. I move wide, to get out of his way, he won’t make it. He...

On our recent surf trip, my middle grom was scared, of “the huge waves, the rocks, and the sharks!” So, quite scared! How did I help him...

Sunday was the Equinox, when the length of the day and the night are equal, and in balance. In nature, as in life, balance is rare. As a...

A couple of weekends ago, my son got knocked out in the first heat of his surf comp, after 20 mins of surfing, and as his 48 years old...

For my 49th birthday week I took the day off, and the rest of the week - went for a surf with mates, the local water slides with the...

Had a fun Monday morning surf session yesterday. People getting some great waves. When I complimented someone on their wave, a cracking...

One of my groms with his new board! If you surf, and want to surf more, and have kids that compete for with your surfing, and each other...

At the end of 2020, I made a resolution to work less and surf more in 2021. At 48, with 3 young kids, I want time now, not later. I had...